![]() So you could chain 20 of those together to get your 600 tick delay. The slowest 2-comparator pulse extender (that is, two comparators next to each other, facing opposite directions, with redstone dust on their 4 inputs and outputs) will last 3 seconds, or 30 redstone ticks. A repeater can create a delay of up to 4 ticks, so you'd need 600 / 4 = 150 repeaters if you wanted to do it the simple, cheap, and naive way.ġ50 is a lot, so I'd recommend you use a different method. So 60 * 10 = 600 ticks of delay is what you need. 1 minute is 60 seconds, and 1 second is 10 redstone ticks (which, confusingly, are each 2 game ticks long, but that's not really relevant to this thread). (#spoiler) = neat! (/rose) = ( full list) News Builds Gameplay Maps Tutorials Redstone Command Blocks FanArt Comment Formatting Use the wiki or community support for questions that can be answered there.Explain your suggestions with a text post.Don't promote illegal or unethical practices.Don’t advertise servers or communities.I use this setup to make a bridge across lava that only stays up so long after a button press.Trails & Tales 1.20 FAQ | Login/Stolen Account Problems | Technical Problems On /r/Minecraft The clock works for one full cycle, then halts, waiting for another input from your detector and is FULLY customizable on the timeframe. once full, a signal from the comparator-repeater off your hopper clock activates the falling-edge pulse emitter, toggling the tflipflop, and thus your clock. An 'on' signal from your detector flips the t-flipflop, activating the hopper clock. One side is fed with as many items as it takes to count out half (HALF) of the time you need. a single feed from your daylight sensor between the pulse emitter and the flip flop. that emitter feeds back around to the input of the flip flop. a single falling-edge pulse emitter using a comparator-repeater feed off of one side of the hopper clock. Immediately beside it a redstone t-flip flop, that uses the redstone to toggle the active hopper. If that's not long enough, add another counter to the output of the first which will top out at a delay of almost 3 years.Ī 2-hopper clock. Since the counter has a capacity of 5 stacks of up to 64 items, and the input clock has a maximum delay of 3.7 minutes this clock can be adjusted to have a cycle time as long as 40 HOURS!. After a full round trip, the clock and the output turns 'off' When all of the items have shifted in the counter from one hopper to the other, it switches the output on the far left 'on', and all the items have to shift back to the first. The redstone on the hoppers on the left disable the counter except when the timer on the right resets, and then allows it to run just long enough to allow one item to shift around. The timer on the left is not being used as a timer, but rather, a counter, counting the number of times the timer on the right has cycled. On the left is another hopper timer, just like it. On the right is one of Etho's Hopper timer, which can be extend to about three and a half minutes, with precise adjustment by adjusting the number of items in it. ![]() Leave the repeaters that should be on the first setting like that, but change the repeaters that should be on the second setting (according to the image) to the fourth setting. To do this, just add more repeaters to the edge triggers (add an extra repeater to when the current repeaters are). Because Minecraftaddict's delay circuit comes with a built-in pulse shortener, you will want to send a slightly longer signal to it. However, these circuits are designed to make a very short pulse. Because of this, you can connect the two Q output wires together (ORing them) to have an output that sends a signal whenever the light-sensor changes. When the A output turns off, the Q output of the right circuit pulses. When the A input is turned on, the Q output of the left circuit pulses. You would connect the A inputs together – to the output of your light trigger. This is an image of a rising-edge trigger on the left, and a falling-edge trigger on the right. The solution to this is to connect the output of your light sensor to a falling-edge and rising-edge monostable circuit that are OR'd together.
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